Joan: Alexander Mcqueens most iconic show
Since Alexander McQueen started his house in 1992 his designs have been known for their innovation, expert craftsmanship, and most importantly, experimentation. McQueen's designer house has been no stranger to controversy, as he often explored dark themes such as rape, death, and mental illness through his designs. In understanding McQueen’s work, it is important to consider his personal struggles with mental illness. His abusive upbringing and the loss of loved ones eventually led him to take his own life in 2010. Growing up in a household full of abuse, he used these tragic experiences to explore topics and design clothes that evoked strong emotion in a way that no other designer had done before.
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Alexander McQueen’s Joan collection debuted on February 25, 1998, during London Fashion Week as part of the Autumn/Winter season. Held in a former bus depot, now known as the Gatliff Road Warehouse, the show featured 91 meticulously crafted looks. The models emerged from a glowing red entrance, symbolizing blood, onto a 100-foot-long runway covered in ash, bordered by an underlit crimson glow. Industrial pendant lights swung erratically overhead, flashing on and off, creating a hauntingly disorienting atmosphere for the audience. This visceral setup, paired with an ominous yet energetic techno soundtrack, was designed to evoke unease and immerse viewers deeply into the narrative. The show concluded with the unsettling eruption of fire surrounding the final model, adding a chilling final act to the experience.
When creating the collection, McQueen drew profound inspiration from the tragic fates of Joan of Arc and the Romanov family, crafting a collection that explored themes of martyrdom, the inevitability of death (memento mori), and the complex dynamics of female power. Both Joan of Arc and the Romanov children met cruel ends due to their perceived threats to the societal structures of their time. McQueen masterfully wove these narratives into his designs, using chainmail to symbolize Joan of Arc's military identity, paired with feminine tailoring to highlight her struggle with gender and identity. Male models were also incorporated to underscore her conflict with traditional femininity, adding yet another layer of complexity to the collection's storytelling.
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Alexander McQueen once said, “I want you to feel repulsed or exhilarated” (Dry, 2018), and his Joan collection from Autumn/Winter 1998 delivered this sentiment with unmatched intensity. Inspired by the tragic fates of Joan of Arc and the Romanov children, McQueen wove themes of martyrdom and female empowerment into every element of the show. His use of chainmail, leather, lace, and a bold color palette, paired with the haunting representation of Joan walking into flames, created a visceral narrative that stunned the audience.
Set against an ash-covered runway lit by swinging industrial lamps, Joan was more than a fashion show—it was an emotional experience. McQueen’s ability to provoke discomfort and awe, paired with his impeccable tailoring and daring storytelling, solidified Joan as a masterpiece. While McQueen’s career was filled with groundbreaking moments, Joan remains a defining triumph of his legacy, merging artistry and provocation in a way no designer has replicated.
